1920s
About the Time
In 1920 ,the 19th amendment promised women the right to vote, but it excluded African Americans and Asian American immigrants (Block). Even Native Americans were not granted this right until 1924. Although, progress was made, so these young women celebrated by ushering in a new era of boldness and boyish styles (Webb). After centuries of an exaggerated feminine figure and corsets, the flappers broke away by popularizing straight silhouettes. They cut their hair into short, bob styles and raised their hemlines to mid-calf. This progression can be seen as a step towards sexual liberation. This style was also greatly influenced by the importance of Jazz; African American women artists were the blueprint (“The Influence of Jazz on Fashion”). The looser-fit dresses and dropped waistlines allowed these young women to move freely while dancing.
Image by Sasha Howard, Photo Collage, 2021
Timeline
My photo collages about fashion and feminism with context of the decade.
1940s
About the Time
World War II sent the men away, leaving space for women to take over the workforce (Cole and Deihl 197). Many engaged in industrial labor through munitions factories while others volunteered in war relief work by preparing medical supplies or sewing. As a result of this new lifestyle, women adopted a utilitarian style. Durable fabrics, pencil skirts, and suits defined this era (Cole and Deihl 203). Their jackets became more masculine than ever before by favoring boxy shapes and defined shoulders. Coco Chanel introduced many women to pants which “gave women a sense of freedom… gave them back their bodies” as she said (Ospina). Fashion in this era focused on empowerment and strengthening women. Rosie the Riveter served as an inspiration and represented all the women who stepped into the workforce with courage and dedication (“Rosie the Riveter”).
Image by Sasha Howard, Photo Collage, 2021
1960s
About the Time
The 60’s introduced birth control which granted women more autonomy and command over their bodies (Press). With an increase of higher education opportunities for women and a more politically active youth, women started rebelling through fashion. During a time when modest clothing and muted colors were the status quo, Mary Quant introduced the mini skirt, a symbol of liberation. Twiggy, arguably the model of the decade, popularized the high hemline when she controversially wore a mini dress to an event with dress code restrictions (Drake). Free-spirited, independent women took over America in bright colors and playful, geometric prints characteristic of Mod (modernist) fashion (Cole and Deihl 272). Similar to the origins of trends in the 1920’s, the popular styles and Mod lifestyle were greatly influenced by jazz and African American women artists in daring, playful dresses.
Image by Sasha Howard, Photo Collage, 2021
1970s
About the Time
The Vietnam War, which ended in 1975, was highly protested for its immorality and violence (McCammon et al. 708-728). Many feminists participated in these protests for the women in Vietnam’s peace and equality. There was also a strong Black Power movement in this decade which African American women served important leadership roles in to fight racism and sexism. With the 1970s came the wide popularization of blue jeans (Donovan). Because these became a staple for both men and women, jeans represented gender equality and transcended social class. These were loved by everyone and transcended social class. Jeans also represented gender equality, as they led a new wave of unisex styles that included button down shirts, bell bottoms, blazers, and long, voluminous hair (Webb). Black activists revived the afro as a hairstyle that was also a symbol of black identity, which worked towards the Natural Hair movement (Gabbara). Acceptance of natural form was a value also held by hippies (Cole and Deihl 309). The hippie movement, led by the youth, rejected the conformist, patriarchal structure and the Vietnam War. They wore bohemian styles and rejected previous standards of modesty.
Image by Sasha Howard, Photo Collage, 2021
1990s
About the Time
The women of the 1990s faced objectification, misogyny, and resistance to gaining rights and support for sexual assault victims (Burkett and Brunell). Third wave feminists questioned the way women and their sexuality were being treated and the discriminatory ideas perpetuated by the media. These women explored female sexuality while asserting themselves as strong, independent, and badass. The Riot Grrrl Movement, female punk groups rebelled against previous rules of femininity by embracing tattoos and a tougher, gender neutral style. “Girl Power” became a powerful mantra. Grunge aesthetic was popularized, and included flannels, ripped jeans, and muted, dark colors (Cole and Deihl 388). Women experimented with new, playful hairstyles; some had twists, knots, and zig zag patterns while others sported colored hair (Cole and Deihl 408).
Image by Sasha Howard, Photo Collage, 2021
Works Cited
Block, Melissa. “Yes, Women Could Vote After The 19th Amendment - But Not All Women. Or Men.” NPR, NPR, 26 Aug. 2020, www.npr.org/2020/08/26/904730251/yes-women-could-vote-after-the-19th-amendment-but-not-all-women-or-men.
Burkett, Elinor and Brunell, Laura. "Feminism". Encyclopedia Britannica, 24 Mar. 2021, https://www.britannica.com/topic/feminism. Accessed 21 April 2021.
Cole, Daniel James, and Nancy Deihl. The History of Modern Fashion from 1850. Laurence King Publishing, 2015.
Donovan, Carrie. “Feminism's Effect on Fashion.” The New York Times, The New York Times, 28 Aug. 1977, www.nytimes.com/1977/08/28/archives/feminisms-effect-on-fashion.html.
Drake, Cara. “American Academy of Fashion Design: Blog: A History of Feminist Fashion.” American Academy of Fashion Design | Blog | A History of Feminist Fashion, 30 Apr. 2018, www.aaofd.com/blog/a-history-of-feminist-fashion#:~:text=The%201960s%20saw%20the%20first,clothing%20for%20the%20member's%20area.
Gabbara, Princess. “The History of the Afro.” EBONY, 17 Dec. 2018, www.ebony.com/style/the-history-of-the-afro/.
“The Influence of Jazz on Fashion.” Jazzuary, 28 Dec. 2015, jazzuary.fm/the-influence-of-jazz-on-fashion/.
Leitz, Lisa, and David Meyer. “Gendered Activism and Outcomes: Women in the Peace Movement.” The Oxford Handbook of U.S. Women's Social Movement Activism, by Holly J. McCammon et al., Oxford University Press, 2017, pp. 708–728, digitalcommons.chapman.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1002&context=peace_books.
Ospina, Marie Southard. “11 Ways Feminism Has Impacted Fashion Over Time - PHOTOS.” Bustle, Bustle, 11 Apr. 2016, www.bustle.com/articles/153969-11-ways-feminism-has-impacted-fashion-over-time-photos.
Press, Clare. “Power Dressing: a History of Feminist Statement-Making Fashion.” Vogue Australia, 21 Mar. 2018, www.vogue.com.au/fashion/trends/power-dressing-a-history-of-feminist-statementmaking-fashion/news-story/342e5dc76cf5e9d637ddb3188c068a85.
“Rosie the Riveter.” History.com, A&E Television Networks, 23 Apr. 2010, www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/rosie-the-riveter.
Webb, Ali. “The Evolution of Feminist Style.” CR Fashion Book, CR Fashion Book, 26 Aug. 2020, www.crfashionbook.com/culture/a22736609/feminist-style-evolution-history/.
1920s
1940s
1960s
1970s
1990s
